Jewelry Glossary

A

Agate
Agate is a type of chalcedony quartz distinguished by its layered bands of color. It has been used in cameos, beads, and seals for thousands of years. Found in volcanic rocks, agates come in many colors, often dyed to enhance their appearance. In jewelry, they are appreciated for affordability and durability.

Alloy
An alloy is a mixture of metals designed to improve strength, color, or resistance. For example, pure gold (24k) is too soft for daily wear, so jewelers alloy it with copper, silver, or nickel to produce 14k or 18k gold. White gold alloys include palladium or nickel for a silvery appearance.

Amber
Amber is fossilized tree resin, ranging in color from golden yellow to deep brown. Unlike mineral gemstones, amber is organic. It sometimes contains preserved insects or plant matter. Prized in both ancient and modern jewelry, amber is soft (2–2.5 Mohs) and lightweight, making it ideal for pendants and beads.

Amulet
An amulet is jewelry believed to provide protection or good fortune. Cultures across the world, from Egyptian scarabs to Mediterranean evil eye pendants, have worn amulets for centuries.

Amethyst
Amethyst is a purple quartz that ranges from pale lilac to deep violet. Once as valuable as rubies, large deposits discovered in Brazil made it more accessible. It is February’s birthstone and symbolizes peace, clarity, and spirituality.

Antique Jewelry
Jewelry over 100 years old is considered antique. Styles include Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian periods. Collectors value antique jewelry for its craftsmanship, history, and rarity.

Appraisal
A professional assessment of jewelry’s monetary value, often required for insurance or resale.

Aquamarine
A light blue to teal member of the beryl family and March’s birthstone. Its name means “water of the sea.” Popular in both antique and contemporary rings, aquamarine is known for clarity and durability.

Art Deco Jewelry
From the 1920s–30s, Art Deco designs emphasized bold geometry, symmetry, and color contrasts. Platinum, diamonds, and onyx were staples.

Asscher Cut
A square step cut with deep facets, popular in the early 20th century. It produces a “hall of mirrors” effect.

August Birthstone
Peridot is the traditional August birthstone, though sardonyx and spinel are also used. Peridot’s lime green color symbolizes strength and healing.

B

Baguette Cut
A rectangular step cut used mainly as side stones. Their straight lines make them perfect for channel or bar settings.

Bangle
Rigid bracelets slipped over the hand or opened with a hinge. Bangles can be plain, gem-set, or enamelled.

Baroque Pearl
Irregularly shaped pearls valued for uniqueness. Popular in modern and Baroque-era jewelry alike.

Bar Setting
Gems are secured between vertical bars of metal, often used for channel-set rings.

Bead Setting
Tiny metal beads hold small gemstones in place, creating a glittering pavé effect.

Bezel Setting
A rim of metal surrounds a gem for maximum protection. Popular in modern minimalist designs and with fragile stones like opals.

Birthstone
Each month corresponds to a gemstone:

  • January – Garnet

  • February – Amethyst

  • March – Aquamarine

  • April – Diamond

  • May – Emerald

  • June – Pearl or Alexandrite

  • July – Ruby

  • August – Peridot

  • September – Sapphire

  • October – Opal or Tourmaline

  • November – Topaz or Citrine

  • December – Turquoise, Zircon, or Tanzanite

Black Diamond
Naturally dark diamonds, often opaque. Favored in edgy, modern jewelry.

Blue Topaz
Heat- or radiation-treated to enhance vivid blue. Affordable compared to sapphire or aquamarine.

Bohemian Garnet
Tiny, deep-red garnets from the Czech Republic. Popular in 19th-century jewelry.

Brilliance
The sparkle created when light reflects inside a gem. Round brilliant diamonds maximize brilliance.

Brooch
A decorative pin attached to clothing, often featuring gemstones or enamel.

C

Cabochon
Smooth, dome-shaped gems without facets. Used for opaque stones like turquoise, opal, and moonstone.

Cameo
Relief carvings in contrasting layers, often on shell or agate. Popular in Victorian jewelry.

Carat (ct.)
Gem weight unit: 1 carat = 0.2 grams. Different from “karat” (gold purity).

Carnelian
Orange-red chalcedony quartz, historically used in seals.

Ceylon Sapphire
Sapphires from Sri Lanka, prized for vivid brilliance.

Channel Setting
Gems set in a groove, flush with the metal. Ideal for wedding bands.

Chandelier Earrings
Multi-tiered, ornate earrings.

Choker
A necklace 14–16 inches, fitting snugly at the neck.

Clarity
One of the “Four Cs” of diamond grading, clarity measures inclusions or blemishes. Grades range from Flawless (FL) to Included (I).

Clasp
Fasteners including spring ring, lobster claw, toggle, and magnetic clasps.

Cluster Setting
A group of smaller gems arranged to mimic a larger stone.

Citrine
Yellow quartz, November’s birthstone. Affordable alternative to yellow sapphire.

D

Diamond
April’s birthstone and the hardest natural substance. Diamonds are graded by the Four Cs: cut, color, clarity, and carat. Natural and lab-grown diamonds are chemically identical.

Diamond Cuts

  • Round Brilliant: Most popular.

  • Princess: Square, brilliant style.

  • Cushion: Rounded-square, antique look.

  • Emerald: Step cut, emphasizes clarity.

  • Oval, Pear, Marquise, Heart: Fancy shapes.

Dog Collar Necklace
A Victorian choker style, often made of pearls.

Drop Earrings
Earrings that dangle below the earlobe.

Druzy
Tiny crystals on stone surfaces, creating sparkle.

Durability
A gem’s ability to withstand wear. Factors include hardness, cleavage, and stability.

E

Electrum
Ancient alloy of gold and silver. Used in Greek and Roman coins and jewelry.

Emerald
Green beryl, May’s birthstone. Most emeralds contain inclusions known as “jardin.” Colombia is a leading source. Softer than diamonds (Mohs 7.5–8), emeralds require protective settings.

Emerald Cut
Step-cut rectangle with fewer facets. Highlights clarity and color rather than sparkle.

Engraving
Decorative carving in metal or stone. Custom engraving adds sentimental value.

Estate Jewelry
Pre-owned jewelry, regardless of age. Can include vintage or antique.

Eternity Band
Rings with diamonds or gemstones all around the band, symbolizing eternal love.

Evil Eye
Mediterranean amulet designed to ward off misfortune. Often blue and white glass or enamel.

F

Facet
Flat, polished surface on a gem. Round brilliants have 57–58 facets.

Fancy Color Diamonds
Naturally colored diamonds: pink, blue, yellow, green. Extremely rare and valuable.

Fancy Cuts
Any cut other than round. Popular in engagement rings for unique looks.

Filigree
Lace-like metalwork of twisted wires. Common in Edwardian jewelry.

Findings
Jewelry components: clasps, jump rings, earring hooks.

Flush Setting
Gems set into the metal surface, flush with it.

Foil Backing
Antique technique where foil behind a gem enhanced sparkle.

G

Garnet
January’s birthstone. Available in red, green (tsavorite), orange (spessartite), and more.

Gemology
The science of gemstones, studied by gemologists.

Gold
Available in yellow, white, and rose. Measured in karats (24k = pure). Alloys make gold durable.

Gold Vermeil
Sterling silver plated with thick gold. More durable than standard plating.

Graduated Necklace
Beads or gems increase in size toward the center.

Gypsy Setting
Gem is set directly into the band, often used in men’s rings.

H

Hallmark
Official stamp denoting metal purity (e.g., 925 for sterling silver, 750 for 18k gold).

Hammered Finish
Surface texture created with hammer strikes. Adds artisanal style.

Hardness
Measured by the Mohs scale. Diamonds = 10, talc = 1.

Head
Part of a ring that holds the gemstone.

Heirloom Jewelry
Jewelry passed down generations, valued for history.

Halo Setting
Smaller gems surrounding a larger center stone. Adds sparkle and the illusion of size.

I

Illusion Setting
Metal design that makes gems appear larger.

Imitation Gem
Artificial substitutes like glass, resin, or cubic zirconia.

Inclusions
Internal features in gemstones. Can identify origin and authenticity.

Invisible Setting
Multiple stones set flush without visible metal.

Iolite
Blue-violet gemstone sometimes called “water sapphire.”

Italian Chains
Figaro, Rope, and Franco chains are hallmark Italian styles.

J

Jade
Jadeite and nephrite are prized for green hues. Symbol of purity in Chinese culture.

Jet
Fossilized coal used in Victorian mourning jewelry.

Jeweler’s Loupe
10x magnifying tool used to inspect gemstones.

Jump Ring
Small ring used to connect jewelry parts.

K

Karat (K)
Gold purity measure. 24k = pure, 18k = 75% gold, 14k = 58.3% gold.

Keshi Pearl
Small, irregular pearl formed without a nucleus. Highly lustrous.

Knife-Edge Band
Shank with sharp angled edges.

Kunzite
Pink-to-violet gemstone, variety of spodumene. Sensitive to light.

L

Lab-Grown Diamond
Chemically identical to mined diamonds, created via HPHT or CVD methods. More affordable and eco-friendly.

Lariat Necklace
Long necklace with open ends, often tied or looped.

Lavalier
Pendant necklace with drop design.

Lost-Wax Casting
Jewelry-making technique using a wax mold.

Luster
How a gem reflects light. Pearls may be “high luster” or “chalky.”

M

Marquise Cut
Elongated oval with pointed ends. Maximizes carat weight.

Matinee Necklace
20–24 inches, falls at the bust.

Melee Diamonds
Small diamonds under 0.2 carats. Used in pavé settings.

Moissanite
Moissanite is a lab-created gemstone that closely resembles diamond but offers even greater sparkle at a more affordable price.

Mokume-gane
Japanese metal technique producing woodgrain-like patterns.

Morganite
Peach-pink beryl gemstone. Popular as a diamond alternative.

Mohs Scale
Hardness ranking: 1 (talc) to 10 (diamond).

N

Navette
Antique term for marquise shape.

Necklace Types

  • Choker: 14–16 inches

  • Princess: 18 inches

  • Matinee: 20–24 inches

  • Opera: 28–34 inches

  • Rope: 36+ inches

Nickel-Free Jewelry
Hypoallergenic, avoids common skin reactions.

Niello
Black metallic inlay used in antique silver.

Nacre
Mother-of-pearl substance forming pearls.

O

Old European Cut
Antique round cut, precursor to the modern brilliant.

Old Mine Cut
Antique cushion-cut diamond.

Onyx
Black chalcedony, often used in men’s rings.

Opal
October’s birthstone, famous for play-of-color. Delicate and requires care.

Oval Cut
Elongated round brilliant. Popular in modern engagement rings.

Oxidation
Darkened finish on silver, either natural or deliberate.

P

Palladium
Lightweight platinum-group metal, hypoallergenic.

Pavé Setting
Small gems closely set to create a glittering surface.

Pear Cut
Teardrop-shaped gem.

Pearl
Organic gem formed inside oysters/mussels. Types include Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea, Freshwater. June’s birthstone.

Peridot
Green gem, August’s birthstone. Found in volcanic rock.

Platinum
Durable, dense, naturally white precious metal. Ideal for engagement rings.

Princess Cut
Square brilliant cut diamond. Popular in modern solitaires.

Prong Setting
Claw-like prongs secure the gem. Allows maximum light.

Q

Quartz
Gem family including amethyst, citrine, rose quartz, smoky quartz.

Quartz Watch
Timepiece powered by quartz oscillation, highly accurate.

Quality Marks
Metal stamps: 925 (sterling), 585 (14k gold), 750 (18k).

R

Radiant Cut
Square/rectangular brilliant with cut corners.

Red Spinel
Once mistaken for ruby, now valued on its own.

Rhodium Plating
Bright, white finish applied to white gold. Requires re-plating over time.

Ring Shank
Band portion of a ring.

Rose Cut
Antique dome-shaped diamond cut.

Rose Gold
Gold alloyed with copper for pink hue.

Ruby
Red corundum, July birthstone. Symbol of passion and wealth.

S

Sapphire
Corundum gemstone, September birthstone. Comes in all colors except red.

Signet Ring
Ring with engraved crest or initials, used for sealing documents.

Silver (Sterling)
92.5% pure silver, prone to tarnish.

Solitaire
Single-stone setting, classic for engagement rings.

Spinel
Gemstone available in red, pink, violet, and blue.

Stud Earrings
Simple earrings sitting on the lobe.

Sunstone
Orange feldspar with glittery inclusions.

T

Tanzanite
Rare violet-blue gem, only from Tanzania. December birthstone.

Tennis Bracelet
Line of diamonds encircling the wrist.

Tension Setting
Gem held in place by metal pressure.

Titanium
Strong, lightweight, hypoallergenic. Popular in men’s bands.

Topaz
Available in many colors. Blue is most popular. November birthstone.

Tourmaline
Multicolored gemstone. October birthstone. “Watermelon” variety has pink and green zones.

Turquoise
Opaque blue-green gem. December birthstone. Sacred in Native American cultures.

U

Uncut Diamond
Natural diamond in rough crystal form.

Untreated Gemstone
Gem sold in natural state without enhancements.

U-Prong Setting
Shared U-shaped prongs holding stones.

V

Vermeil
Sterling silver with thick gold plating.

Vintage Jewelry
20–99 years old. Distinct from antique.

VVS Diamond
Very Very Slightly Included clarity grade. Almost flawless.

Victorian Jewelry
1837–1901 designs. Includes romantic motifs, mourning jewelry, serpent rings.

W

Wedding Band
Exchanged at marriage, symbolizing eternal bond.

White Gold
Gold alloyed with palladium or nickel. Rhodium plated for bright finish.

Wire-Wrapping
Handcrafted jewelry technique using wires to secure gems.

Watch Complications
Extra features beyond time, such as chronograph, moon phase, or perpetual calendar.

X

XRF Testing
X-ray fluorescence test to identify metal composition.

Xylorhiza Jewelry
Jewelry incorporating fossilized wood. Rare and artisanal.

Y

Yellow Diamond
Fancy yellow diamond, valuable when vivid in color.

Yellow Gold
Classic warm-toned gold, alloyed with copper/silver.

Y-Necklace
Necklace forming a Y shape, ending with a drop.

Yurman Cable
David Yurman’s iconic twisted cable bracelet style.

Z

Zircon
Natural gem (not cubic zirconia). Found in blue, golden, and clear. December birthstone.

Cubic Zirconia (CZ)
Lab-created diamond simulant, affordable.

Zodiac Jewelry
Jewelry inspired by astrological signs.

Zultanite
Color-change gem shifting from green to raspberry under different lights.

Comparisons & Buyer Guides

Moissanite vs Diamond
Moissanite offers more fire and costs 70–90% less than diamonds. Diamonds carry cultural prestige and resale value.

White Gold vs Platinum
White gold is lighter and less expensive but requires rhodium re-plating. Platinum is denser, hypoallergenic, and naturally white.

Natural vs Lab Diamonds
Natural diamonds form over billions of years, while lab diamonds are created in weeks. Lab diamonds are eco-friendly and budget-friendly, but natural diamonds often hold greater resale value.

Jewelry Eras

  • Georgian (1714–1837): Handmade, intricate, closed settings.

  • Victorian (1837–1901): Romantic motifs, mourning jewelry.

  • Edwardian (1901–1915): Platinum lace-like filigree.

  • Art Deco (1920–1935): Bold geometric patterns, onyx, and platinum.

  • Retro (1940s–50s): Large, bold yellow gold pieces.

Cultural & Symbolic Jewelry

  • Claddagh Ring (Ireland): Hands, heart, crown = friendship, love, loyalty.

  • Mangalsutra (India): Necklace symbolizing marriage.

  • Evil Eye (Mediterranean): Wards off bad luck.

  • Religious Jewelry: Crosses, Stars of David, Islamic prayer beads.

Jewelry Care Terms

  • Ultrasonic Cleaning: Vibrations clean but can damage delicate gems.

  • Polishing Cloth: Safely removes tarnish.

  • Rhodium Plating: Refreshes white gold’s shine.

  • Resizing: Adjusts ring fit.

  • Proper Storage: Anti-tarnish bags, separate compartments.